The Mediterranean’s Best-Kept Secrets: 6 Ports for Your Bucket List

 

The Mediterranean is a fantasy cruise destination for many. While major cities, such as Barcelona, Rome, Venice, Athens and Dubrovnik, with their world-class attractions, get much of the attention, its quieter ports often reveal the soul of a destination and its people. Sometimes, these smaller harbors are gateways to the Mediterranean’s real treasures.

Here are six worthy of a detour. While large cruise ships can’t dock at these tiny harbors, the yachts of Windstar Cruises do.

Giardini Naxos, Sicily, Italy

Taormina, on Italy’s island of Sicily/

Giardini Naxos is da beach-lined village sheltered by a beautiful bay along the Ionian Sea. It’s the jumping off point for Taormina, one of Sicily’s must-see towns. But unlike Windstar, most cruise lines dock at Messina, 33 miles away, instead of Giardini Naxos, making Taormina less convenient to visit.

Just two miles from Giardini Naxos, Taormina is a cliff-top settlement where the Greeks built a spectacularly situated amphitheater, one of Sicily’s most remarkable ruins. You can easily reach Taormina via taxi, bus, or gondola. Views of the town spilling down the hillside will give you pause, as will the public gardens, flush with Mediterranean plants, fountains and ornamental pavilions. Window-shopping and cafés tempt along the car-free Corso Umberto, Taormina’s main drag, while Madonna della Rocca, a tiny church carved into the rock, awaits discovery. Oscar Wilde, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, and D.H. Lawrence extolled the town’s dreamy setting, and 19th-century Berlin painter Otto Geleng captured its ruins and coastal panoramas on canvas, with the swelling summit of Mt. Etna puffing away in the background.

And if you just feel like a low-key day in Giardini Naxos, this beachy village is great for a swim, a visit to a cafe like Don Egidio for pistachio gelato and a glass of summery rosé, or some relaxing time spent at your ship’s marina (ships anchor in the bay here).

Lipari, Italy

Italy’s Lipari Castle/Adobe

Like Giardini Naxos, the island of Lipari, located just north of Sicily, also sees relatively few cruise calls (and always by smaller ships). Largest of the eight volcanic Aeolian Islands, Lipari is famed for its caper bush, the buds of which are pickled in vinegar or salt before winding up in your chicken piccata or spaghetti puttanesca. But Lipari also provides easy access to the island of Vulcano, looming just opposite the harbor. Reached by a quick ferry ride and a 2-hour hike, the steaming crater that dominates the island was known in Roman mythology as the chimney for the god Vulcan’s workshop. Down below, mud baths lining the shoreline are a testament to his continuing metallurgy.

Porto-Vecchio, Corsica, France

Corsica may be best known for its otherworldly cities but it’s also a great island for outdoor activities./Adobe

Corsica is France’s largest Mediterranean outpost, defined by a chain of mountains lofty enough to lure snowflakes even in spring and fall. Although the town center is just a stone’s throw from the waterfront, Porto Vecchio exhibits a bit of the proud charm of a Tuscan hill town, albeit trimmed by the old saltpans that are still in use today. Follow the coastline south to Plage de Palombaggia, a gorgeous beach lined with pine trees and informal restaurants serving grilled sardines, or trek across the island to the Corsican capital of Ajaccio, another lovely small port.  Napoleon Bonaparte was born in Ajaccio; his family home is now a museum.

Portoferraio, Elba, Italy

Italy’s island of Elba/

Napoleon’s story continues just east, on the Italian island of Elba, where the French emperor was exiled following his forced abdication, before moving on the next year to a little fiasco known as Waterloo. In Elba’s principle town, Portoferraio, you can tour Napoleon’s modest island home, Palazzina dei Mulini, built from two windmills and containing his library from Fontainebleau of more than 2,000 books.

Pastel-colored buildings with red-tiled roofs, outdoor cafés and restaurants, and several small, lovely beaches make the town a delight to explore. Three 16th century Medici forts interconnected by massive walls crown a hilltop, and offer spectacular views of the town and bay. The island — easy to circumnavigate by car in a day — is lusher than many Mediterranean outposts, since its verdant scenery is nourished by underground springs year-round.

Sanary-sur-Mer, France

There are more famous (and crowded) ports that reveal the French Riviera and Provence, but sunny Sanary-sur-Mer (sometimes called the sunniest place in France) offers access to nearby vineyards that produce some of the finest rosé wines on earth. Beloved for their earthy character and dominant Mourvèdre flavors, some Bandol vines date to the Roman period — even Alexandre Dumas’ Count of Monte Cristo was a fan of Bandol rosés (yes, real men drink pink!). But you needn’t stray far from port to take in Sanary’s colorful morning market held outside the town hall, with the windsurfers enjoying gusty breezes from the Rhône Valley and the traditional wooden fishing boats bobbing in the harbor.

Tarragona, Spain

Tarragona’s festive market/Carolyn Spencer Brown

Located 60 miles west of Barcelona, the port city of Tarragona is notable for one of Spain’s most important Roman ruins, Tárraco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Some of the ruins are thought to pre-date the Roman period, and the Cuartel de Pilatos may have been the palace of Emperor Augustus. While Tárraco’s 2nd-century amphitheater is largely a reconstruction today, the Ferreres Aqueduct is mostly intact, its double tier of arches spanning more than 700 feet across the valley. Cap it off with a visit to Tarragona’s archaeological museum, where lush mosaics fill out the story of this once-teeming Roman port.

For more relaxed experiences, check out the ingenuous Mercat Central de Tarragona (Central Market), located at Plaça Corsini (where there are a number of alfresco cafes, terrific for people-watching). What’s unique about Central Market is that the ground floor is, as you’d expect, a more traditional food-shopping experience while underneath, in the basement, is a very contemporary grocery store — which means you can buy just about anything you need from the one spot.

If You Go

Wind Surf in the Mediterranean

Your options for traveling with Windstar in the Mediterranean are numerous. Here are just a handful of our favorites:

  • A piece of Greece, a slice of Italy: Onboard Star Legend, travel from Barcelona to Athens’ Piraeus, nipping into small ship ports in Italy and Greece.
  • Jewels of the Italian and French Rivieras: On this voyage, which sails roundtrip from Rome, Wind Surf stops at the most chic places in the region, including Corsica’s Bastia, Italy’s Porto Ercole, Monte Carlo and Cannes, along with the surprising and exuberant city of Genoa.
  • What we love about Windstar’s Star Collector series of Mediterranean voyages is that these longer cruises incorporate more ports – and yet also more relaxing. On our bucket list is the 16-day Wonders of Andalusia, Provence and Tuscany voyage. On Star Legend from Lisbon to Rome’s Civitavecchia, you’ll travel to places like Spain’s Seville, Malaga and Palamos as well as Morrocco’s Tangier, France’s Sanary-sur-Mer, and Italy’s Portofino and Porto Ercole. And on Star Collector: Ancient to Avant-Garde Mediterranean, your 14-day trip on Wind Star, from Athens (Piraeus) to Barcelona, discover what’s both old and new in places like Greece’s Monemvasia, Italy’s Sorrento and Portoferraio, Corsica’s Calvi and Bastia, and Spain’s Palma de Mallorca.
  • And we’d be remiss not to point out Windstar land-based cruise extensions. The Lake Como and Adriatic Cruise Tour, added to voyages between Venice and Rome, adds pre or post-land trips to Lake Como. There are two nights in Lake Como, where highlights include a boat ride on the lake and a visit to Villa Carlotta Botanical Gardens, and another night in Venice, with tours of the city. This is in addition to an eight day cruise along the Adriatic, where highlights include stops in Croatia, Montenegro, Sicily and Sorrento.

 

 

 

 

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